3 rolls of mig wire later!!!

[Superleggo]

Well I have nearly finished the wiring to get it to a state wher it may run the engine in the car so have had to turn my attentiond back to the cooling side of things so I can try it out.

I have used a BMW header tank for the sole reason that I had one lying about and so it was free and seemed to fit!

All the engine pipework is junk as the engine ran east west not north south so I have been making pipes to run it to my under floor rad.

I have used the old heater channel to run one of the pipes through and cut holes through the chassi to allow the pipes through..

here is the new collector hose.



After a bit of painting and messing about here is the final instalation to the rads.





I may fit a heat shield to the exhaust as it all seems a bit close

[Superleggo]

I have had a bit of a problem with my sliding door handle as part of it had been broken off. But being an early bay one eveyone wants a kings ransom for one. I managed to find another with a missing key so drilled out the lock carefully to leave a bear casting. I have spent the last 2 years before I realised that there is a small grub screw on the side which holds the lock barrel in. The reason I missed this is it was covered in ali filings so looked like the casting! Once cleaned up I can't believe I missed it.




With the key not fitting all the tumblers are not flush as in the previous photo so the lock will not turn.

You can swap the waferers about to make the lock match your key so all the locks and keys fit.

I will not try to reproduce the attached link but it shows how to dismantle VW locks and match the wafers to the key.

http://forum.georgiadubs.com/t2624-how-to-re-keying-an-ignition-switch

Great link now all my door locks work off one key. No more messing about in the dark to find the correct key.

[Superleggo]

After a bit of light relief with the keys, it is back on the cooling. I have tried to get the rad as high as possible to keep it out of harms way but this makes the plumbing more difficult. I suppose if the rads were end fed rather than top fed then things would be less tight or if I had lowered the rads by anothe 50mmor so. However I decided to keep them as high as possible to prevent damage. This is the final arrangement. I used some old 32mm plastic water pipe to make up some of the joiners. This worked well especially after I perfected the art of creating flanges on the end to prevent the hoses blowing off. If you heat the ends evenly over the gas cooker until they catch fire and then hold them upright for a while the self form to a nice flange as in the pictures.





The rads hinge down to allow access. The fans are below the rads



The fans are under the plastic mesh. The mesh should provide some protection to the rads from stones and branches etc



There is a aluminium scoop which bolts to the fixings you can just see on the front. This should pull the air from the top downwards. I have used two 10" fans which are difficult to see under the mesh.

The rest of the day was spent doing a bit more tidying up of the wiring.

[Superleggo]

I have spent the last few days messing about with the wiring which seemed ok but form my notes when I had the engine running out of the car so what could possibly go wrong. The Foord anti theft system goes through a self check when you turn on the engine and the light is supposed to go out after 2 seconds to confirm all is well, but it didn't!

After much head scratching and checking the wiring diagram all seemed ok but no joy until U realised that I had only loosely possitioned the main 42 pin connector in place. Feeling a bit of a plonker but with warm feeling this may be the cause I turned the key and the pats light went out. As I turned the key to the second position it caught me out as it started first time even though it was running from an petrol can on the floor.

I grabbed a camera to share the moment. All seems ok despite a bit of smoke off the exhaust from dust and oil during the build. It should run a bit better when I tighten the air box down correctly.


http://youtu.be/yFfAduppi7E

I will post a better video later.

A bit of a milestone on my project.

I have spent the rest of the day shortening wires to tidy things up. I plan to run a 13 core trailer cable to run the wires to the front as The keys in the boot may prove a bit inconvenient.

I will have to decide how to graft the mondeo key into the VW column.

[splitbusvanatic]

Just watched the video.
Good man.
Great to see it burst in to life.
Keep it going.

[Obonobo]

Congrats! Nice natural touch with the birdies singing in the background!

Can you post some pics of your scoop? I'm curious how you made it!
_________________
Greetings from Sietze
-------
Driving a '75 Bay with a EJ22 '93 and 091 6-rib box.

And it's a long time since it looked anything like this!

[Superleggo]

Obonobo
Thanks for your coments. I am not sure about the morning chorus it was probably me jumping about the garage on the basis I had fooled the Ford ECU anti theft system to thinking it was still in the Mondeo.

I have not fitted the rad scoop yet but it is not very exciting as it is basically a bent piece of ali bolted to the front of the rad tray. I have seen much nicer examples on here with higness and skate board wheels to ride over bumps., But I am not planning to lower the camper at present so should be ok. I will try and post a picture for you later in the week but currenly I am trying to shorten my loom so it looks like it may fit the van.

[jp]

Engine sounds awesome very throaty

Bring on the test drive
_________________
1971 Devon Bay with 1800 Ford Turbo Diesel Engine (wip)
1983 VW Golf GTI Campaign
1979 Mini 1275 GT
2013 Scirocco TDI GT

[Superleggo]

Thanks JP I was quite pleased with the sound. I would like to say I planned it that way but the exhaust was made to fit the space available with the parts I had lying about in the garage and a trendy looking tail pipe. But it seems ok.

The parts have just arrived to plumb in the fuel on a more permanent solution as dragging a petrol can about is never going to cut the mustard!

Hope to do more work over the weekend but Cornwall getting to the rugby finals may leave the county empty!

[Superleggo]

in the previous video I had the engine running on a Rover fuel pump and filter from a scrap car but I have decided this is not a suitable long term solution. I had another new Bosch pump lying about from another project so have ordered some new banjo fittings and a filter from a volvo 240 to meet my needs. I have no great reason fo picking a volvo filter except it had screw on ends and cam from a similar powered car. however it was in stock at my local motor factors!

I have decided to mount the pump and filter on the engine support bar as it is out of the way and itseemed like spare space near my fuel swirl pot

with a bit of fabrication it seems to fit ok.









On the original set up the non return valve was between the pump and filter but for space reasons I have included it after the filter. I can't think of a reason why this should not be ok but I am sure you will correct me if I am wrong.

I have spent the last half hour wandering rounf the garage looking for the fuel cut off valve I took out of the mondeo a year ago. I am sure I put it in a safe place but can't think where. The bad news is I had two and I am sure they are together! I hope they surface over the weekend.

[Superleggo]

I gave up looking around the garage to find my fuel cut off valve and a got another from a friend who races Mondeos. I had just finished fitting it when I came across my one!!



These work on the basis ift you give them too big a shake the the ball drops out of a cup and opens the switch so the fuel pump cuts out. In the Mondeo it is hidden in the passingers footwell. I decided to mount it some where where I could see the button is ''In''

[Obonobo]

Seems that you're dottig I's! nice work!
_________________
Greetings from Sietze
-------
Driving a '75 Bay with a EJ22 '93 and 091 6-rib box.

And it's a long time since it looked anything like this!