Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 3:47 pm Post subject: Header tank's pressurising
HELP!!!
My header's pressurising pretty rapid, the water's coming up fast with the cap off. I do get bubbles and swirling.
Right, last week she was running right as rain. Left her standing from Fri affo til Sunday evening. Went to the local chinese - 5 miles or so. Temp gauge didn't pause at 80, rose to 90 odd by the time I got there. Bottom hose was stone cold - uh huh, air lock. Semi cured it there and then.
Monday - fine
Tue - fine
Wed morn fine, Wed evening (works car park) - air lock's back.
Took today off to play in the snow, ended up fecking around with the van.
Went to local VW dealer for a sniff of the header tank, they'd lost the bulb bit.
Went to Scooby dealer, he said it didn't sound like it was bleed properly. Scooby's are bad for that apparently.
I asked the Scooby dealer how much were headgaskets - he told me it was around £290 as you have to buy the full set. Please tell me this is BS!
I did fit a heater the other week, one of the pipes was weeping - now fixed.
Any ideas?
Edit:
I'm not overheating BTW
Edit No2:
haha, just found gaskets at £30 for a pair at:
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts_info.asp?id=313
Are these any good if I need them? _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
if header pressurising that much i would say its HG. however - i would go through you cooling system carefully to iradicate any possible leaks and be 100% sure.
get it tested befroe you do anything rash tho.....
Joined: 09 Feb 2006 Posts: 778 Location: newmarket
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 2:52 pm Post subject:
you can drill a tek screw into the water manifold where it comes out above cam covers and bleed from there cos its pretty much the highest point on engine ,but you must get the air off the heads.
does the gas coming from tank smell gassy ?if it does head gaskets but not that bad to do in situ faulty stat?
good luck anyway _________________ vwdrc class rep
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 4:38 pm Post subject:
Cheers for the comments guys.
doppelganger wrote:
you can drill a tek screw into the water manifold where it comes out above cam covers and bleed from there cos its pretty much the highest point on engine ,but you must get the air off the heads.
does the gas coming from tank smell gassy ?if it does head gaskets but not that bad to do in situ faulty stat?
good luck anyway
TEK screw, what's that? I have a pipe already on the manifold to the header tank.
It doesn't smell of exhaust that I can tell.
Stat works just fine. After the lock's cleared she's happy. I think I've caught it in the early stages.
Which gaskets do you recommend?
Scooby want £290 (full engine kit)
Brown Bros want £140 for full head set (I think this includes Inlet, Exhaust, water manifold etc)
I've seen some (full head set) on Flea Bay for £39.99
Any links would be fantastic
Thanks for saying it can be done in situ. Whoohoo Roughly how long does it take? 8-10 hrs?
Are the head bolts re-usable? It doesn't say to use new ones in the manual.
Soz for all the questions. _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
Joined: 09 Feb 2006 Posts: 778 Location: newmarket
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 4:47 pm Post subject:
ElusiveStranger wrote:
Cheers for the comments guys.
doppelganger wrote:
you can drill a tek screw into the water manifold where it comes out above cam covers and bleed from there cos its pretty much the highest point on engine ,but you must get the air off the heads.
does the gas coming from tank smell gassy ?if it does head gaskets but not that bad to do in situ faulty stat?
good luck anyway
TEK screw, what's that? I have a pipe already on the manifold to the header tank.
It doesn't smell of exhaust that I can tell.
Stat works just fine. After the lock's cleared she's happy. I think I've caught it in the early stages.
Which gaskets do you recommend?
Scooby want £290 (full engine kit)
Brown Bros want £140 for full head set (I think this includes Inlet, Exhaust, water manifold etc)
I've seen some (full head set) on Flea Bay for £39.99
Any links would be fantastic
Thanks for saying it can be done in situ. Whoohoo Roughly how long does it take? 8-10 hrs?
Are the head bolts re-usable? It doesn't say to use new ones in the manual.
Soz for all the questions.
ive used them from ebay with no probs or our local engine recondtionerthe head bolts can be used again but i have had a broken one that i had to have removed(and for the cost of new/peace of mind etc)there is quite a complicated torqueing sequence (no visitors halfway through)8-10 hrs depends on how competant etc but can be done in less time ,dont forget cambelt?water pump etc (is it worth changing?)if it doesnt pressure up any more dont bother ,but dont forget you can slightly warp the heads so they may need skimming good luck and ask away if you need help _________________ vwdrc class rep
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 5:08 pm Post subject:
doppelganger wrote:
ive used them from ebay with no probs or our local engine recondtionerthe head bolts can be used again but i have had a broken one that i had to have removed(and for the cost of new/peace of mind etc)there is quite a complicated torqueing sequence (no visitors halfway through)8-10 hrs depends on how competant etc but can be done in less time ,dont forget cambelt?water pump etc (is it worth changing?)if it doesnt pressure up any more dont bother ,but dont forget you can slightly warp the heads so they may need skimming good luck and ask away if you need help
I have read the torquing sequence, tighten, tighten, loosen, loosen again, torque, then tighten 80-90°
I will replace the cambelt as I haven't done that yet. Mine's a changeover year 97-98 so I have to take the belt in. (Poxy serial numbers mean squat)
Umm water 'pump pressure up', can you explain how to check? Roughly how much costwise? (one of those pounds/time things) _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
Joined: 09 Feb 2006 Posts: 778 Location: newmarket
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 5:15 pm Post subject:
ElusiveStranger wrote:
doppelganger wrote:
ive used them from ebay with no probs or our local engine recondtionerthe head bolts can be used again but i have had a broken one that i had to have removed(and for the cost of new/peace of mind etc)there is quite a complicated torqueing sequence (no visitors halfway through)8-10 hrs depends on how competant etc but can be done in less time ,dont forget cambelt?water pump etc (is it worth changing?)if it doesnt pressure up any more dont bother ,but dont forget you can slightly warp the heads so they may need skimming good luck and ask away if you need help
I have read the torquing sequence, tighten, tighten, loosen, loosen again, torque, then tighten 80-90°
I will replace the cambelt as I haven't done that yet. Mine's a changeover year 97-98 so I have to take the belt in. (Poxy serial numbers mean squat)
Umm water 'pump pressure up', can you explain how to check? Roughly how much costwise? (one of those pounds/time things)
it does read like pump pressure up but not what i meant ,its that the pumps have a tendancy to leak just when you least want them to but if its ok dont bother.i would use those gaskets i have done before with no probs and you will have a few spare _________________ vwdrc class rep
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 5:25 pm Post subject:
Fantastic, cheers bud
Nice to know someone has said they're good Sounds too cheap to be any good.
I'm still gonna have to drive her for a while. Nice and easy - she's not been over 95° in my hands.
Seb advised me to replace the gaskets as his went. Hindsight's a wonderful thing.
Think my pump's fine.
Am I right in thinking I don't have to remove the cams? _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 5:35 pm Post subject:
Raaaah Bonus!
Will let you know when I do it.
I'm going to make a coolant pressuriser to check for leaks etc just as a by-the-by.
Will change both head gaskets though, after all if one's gone the other's the same age.
I don't think I require any special tools.
Will take some photos and write it up on here. _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
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