Help need on wiring issues

[morganman]

Hello,
I'm after a little help have also posted on the T25 owners site and need some help on some wiring issues for a 2.2 subaru converstion, using all RJES parts, order before Xmas. can anyone help,

1) I have a black module thing which i can't identify was fixed to the inside and has the following written on it 26740AA040 Nippon ABS Ltd, Don't drop, advance direction. Its not link to the ecu but has two cables Yellow and blue which go to a black connector which is linked to the ECU plugs ( Test plug, data link) here's a picture.



2) The 4 cables which when to the radiator fan's/ AC i have founded but not sure how to link into the bus, i have twin fan setup at present and the ecu will give two earth switch supplies to relay one and two for the main fans and i take it i leave the air conditioner relay and evaporation thermos switch disconnected ?

3) Then i have 5 cables which went from the ecu to the dash/pedals. again the Haynes wiring diagram is a little woolly but i think i have Malfunction lamp(check engine) red/green, Tachometer Black and blue, Speed sensor cable Green/Black, neutral switch light green/ black and clutch switch Red/Yellow. know what to do with all but the last two?

4) Oil pressure switch new engine only has one so do i link the T25 twin warning to the one switch or just earth out the buzzer of doom?

5) The oxygen sensor diagram shows two but mine only seems to have one ( unless i cut the 2ND one out but didn't see it in the exhaust) i looking to use a two use a twin exhaust system with no linked pipes from one side to the other, can i install the sensor in one side only?

Picture of the loom so far and the ecu board and relays and fuse carrier which I'm fitting in a side cupboard in the camper on the rear off side just before the wardrobe.




Found the first one, it's a G Meter for the ABS which does link the the Data link connector and the Diagnosis connector. so can i just cut these out or do i need to earth them down?

Edit - Title changed ES 7/4/10
_________________
Chris Walke
1990 T25 Kamper Autohomes 1.9 DG

[ElusiveStranger]

Welcome.

Right, what year, what size, what car?

[morganman]

Hi,
The model was a 1996 Subaru Legacy Manual 2.2 16V 4WD GX model saloon, Been posting on the T25 owner club but to date no response to these Electrical issues, I was hoping Richard would read this and confirm details as i purchased all the conversions parts from him.
Thanks for your reply here are my response to your questions raised.

2) The 4 cables which when to the radiator fan's/ AC i have founded but not sure how to link into the bus, i have twin fan setup at present and the ecu will give two earth switch supplies to relay one and two for the main fans and i take it i leave the air conditioner relay and evaporation thermos switch disconnected ?
are you running a/c?
No not running a/c

3) Then i have 5 cables which went from the ecu to the dash/pedals. again the Haynes wiring diagram is a little woolly but i think i have Malfunction lamp(check engine) red/green, Tachometer Black and blue, Speed sensor cable Green/Black, neutral switch light green/ black and clutch switch Red/Yellow. know what to do with all but the last two?
Poss: Water temp, oil pressure warning lamp. Buzz 'em out. One might be handbrake/gears if auto
The two cable spare are for Clutch switch and Neutral switch as noted when removed from donor just unsure what purpose they have and if i have to connect them any where

4) Oil pressure switch new engine only has one so do i link the T25 twin warning to the one switch or just earth out the buzzer of doom?
Can't answer this one, sorry. I'd imagine you just hook up the pressure switch to where VW did
VW has two pressure switches at different bar's where as the Subaru has one switch

5) The oxygen sensor diagram shows two but mine only seems to have one ( unless i cut the 2ND one out but didn't see it in the exhaust) i looking to use a two use a twin exhaust system with no linked pipes from one side to the other, can i install the sensor in one side only?
Later models run a pre & post cat sensor. I'll let someone else answer as I ain't got a Scoobie. You could have a search on Scoobynet to see how the "boys" do it
_________________
Chris Walke
1990 T25 Kamper Autohomes 1.9 DG

[ElusiveStranger]

Ahhh, your van has two fans, right? (I'm assuming you have)
Just run the "Main Fan" relay to one of them. I'm only running a single fan on my belly mounted rad. It hardly ever comes on.
You can ignore the A/C relay - this operates the a/c cooling fan. This comes on at a lower temp/speed (if a/c is on) and is controlled by the ECU.


Neutral switch - Just "jump" the connections on the plug, bit of welding wire/paper-clip etc will do. Job's a good un there

Work out if the clutch switch is normally open or closed - it's possibly a "starter interlock" feature. Is yours an auto? This, in my mind would be the "P" switch.
(I miss-read your OP on these wires, sorry)

Oil pressure - I'm sure someone else will be along to help. You could run two pressure switches either via a T-piece (Joel's done a T for temp & pressure) or there's another place near the bellhouse where you can add another sensor
_________________
The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.

'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"

[morganman]

Sorry for the delay been away this weekend,
The Later T25 have a single fan motor which is run at two speeds, via an twin Bi-metal switch in the radiator Temp one 95 Deg c runs fan via a series resistor at low speed and temp 102 deg c runs direct to the fan via a relay. The Subaru runs two main fans and a sub fan for the a/c. I think some people just run the fans as VW did via the temp sensor but other let the ECU run the fan, this could still run the two stage fan speeds via two relay's or just run the high speed with a direct feed. Not looked at the bus in great detail yet to see where the resistor or relay are located.
Neutral switch i think will be left out as can't see how this can be achieved. Subaru show this as a + switched supply to the ECU, Both the neutral and clutch switch feed in on the same cable in parallel. The clutch switch could be provided via the pedal or at the gearbox end i guess. This may stop the rev's holding on gear change or increase/ decrease the RPM to adjust for the load? but I'm unsure at present the purpose. Note it's was not a Auto and i don't have the car to check the switch was N/O or N/C but the manual shows N/O.
Sound interesting on the oil pressure take offs hope some one can send a picture or confirm the treads used for the Tee piece?

Thanks again for your help i hope to have this sorted soon as want to finish the loom off and install in the bus ready for Engine Change Day!.
_________________
Chris Walke
1990 T25 Kamper Autohomes 1.9 DG

[ElusiveStranger]

Joel's oil pressure photos:
http://www.vwkd.co.uk/bb/viewtopic.php?t=3125&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=12

about " The Subaru runs two main fans and a sub fan for the a/c." That's implying 3 fans

NA engines as far as I'm aware use a Single speed fan for the Fan and another for the A/C (Sub) fan (if ACs fitted)

Turbos, as far as I'm aware, run 2x Twin Speed fans

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong

Scooby fan generally kicks in at 95°C (ish)


Leave the neutral switch connector in the loom just in case. I only had to 'jump' mine as it kept giving me a Code 24 (IACV) when changing from 4->3 & 3->2 when warm.

HTH
_________________
The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.

'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"

[rjes]

Sorry about the delay replying. It's difficult to give advice to people doing their own wiring because there are so many variations in Subaru wiring for a number of reasons:

1. I work from two folders of wiring diagrams. If I stacked them all together the pages for the more common models would be about 80mm thick. There is no way of knowing which diagram matches a given donor car apart from by model year and experience (i.e. you can't look them up by VIN number, etc), so knowing for definite that a diagram is the correct one is impossible unless I have the harness in front of me. It's not uncommon for me to realise when I am more than 1/2 way through a harness that the diagram I am using is not the same as the harness.

2. I work from genuine Subaru wiring diagrams wherever possible. Some of the generic diagrams in aftermarket manuals are not the best quality (although I've not seen the Haynes ones), and many are based on US models. Particularly from 1995 - 1999, US models are nothing like their European models in terms of engine management wiring.

3. I don't modify every Subaru diagram to show how I make it work in a VW. Many of the modifications vary depending on other things. An example is how to connect the fan control relays. How they are wired depends on whether the Subaru ECU has one or two fan outputs, and whether the harness is going in to a water cooled T25 or other VW model.

4. The Subaru diagrams I have have come from all over the world, and have taken me years to collect, via whatever means possible. Some are relatively easy to get, others are difficult to get, and the Japanese spec ones are practically impossible to get. They are Subaru's copyright, not mine, so I don't particularly want o be involved in their distribution.


In the past I have occasionally given customers a copy of what I believe is the correct diagram. Some times this has worked OK. Other times it has resulted in me getting bombarded with questions about how to wire various parts. At least once I spent at least half as long answering questions as it would have taken me to do the whole harness job. I don't mind the occasional, very specific wiring questions from anybody if someone is stuck, and spend a considerable amount of time answering them most weeks, but I don't have time to talk people through an entire harness conversion job.
I hope you don't think I am being awkward, but I spend far longer on Subaru wiring work and answering questions for RJES harness customers than is ideal already, and there are only so many hours in a week.


Your mention of a clutch switch makes me wonder whether you have a US spec wiring diagram. The only European models to have clutch switches in the 1990's were those with cruise control, and on these the clutch switch is not part of the engine management system. Some US spec 1990's models used a clutch switch as a 'starter inhibit', so you could only start the engine when you had your foot on the clutch.

I don't know who you are or what is meant be the 'paid customer' title, so I've moved this thread to 'Subaru Power' as I don't see any questions in it which specifically relate to RJES products.
_________________
Regards,

Richard,

R J Engineered Solutions
Quality Subaru Powered VW Components
www.rjes.com

[ElusiveStranger]

[morganman]

Thanks Richard for your response,
I'm a customer of your for RJES parts amounting to over £1000 before Xmas, Sorry if i posted in the incorrect place.
The Haynes manual is for US model which may explain the Clutch/neutral switches and the 2ND Oxygen sensors. i did find a Subaru service manual and for a 1996 model but found all the wiring didn't match mine and found the Haynes manual one was correct for colours and connections so started using this one.
I found the link ElusiveStranger provided helped and think i will run along the same lines and keep digging, I'm sure general details like fan switching and oil pressure arrangement can be obtained.
i will post any findings that may help others.
Thanks for the posting so far.
_________________
Chris Walke
1990 T25 Kamper Autohomes 1.9 DG

[Joel]

my way of adapting the oil pressure sender as elusive showed above is a tad on the rough side, another more elegant alternative is to the use the blanked off sender port at the flywheel end of the block for the sender and leave the original idiot light sender in the stock pulley end

i saved the threaded fitting from my first EJ and will swap it over..... one day
_________________
1974 1303 Germanlook Suba-Beetle
Subaru EJ254, BoostR 17", 4 Wheel discs, Topline suspension and A/C

[ElusiveStranger]

You're allowed to do that cos you're a farmer :p

I was looking at Brent's site (again) for inspiration for zorsts and remembered

Whoops, digressed again

Anyway....

http://www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/
Click on "Suby Engine -1" tab then click "Oil Press Sender" tab - everything you wanna know about Scooby into a T3
_________________
The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.

'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"

[Joel]

well i havent turned full hillbilly yet
when you see me rolling like this be sure to say something


_________________
1974 1303 Germanlook Suba-Beetle
Subaru EJ254, BoostR 17", 4 Wheel discs, Topline suspension and A/C